Yes, you had to get past the “Springtime for Hitler” finale, a platoon of models stomping down the runway clad all in black leather and with the knee boots and peaked motorcycle caps that hardly anybody wears anymore except aging leather daddies and the architect Peter Marino. Oh, and the neo-Fascists who make their headquarters in Milan.
...Once you had mentally eliminated the slave chains, the chrome studs, the faux chain tattoos and the eyeliner on the buff and hairless mesomorphs Mr. Armani casts for his shows, it was easier to see that what the designer was up to: that is, rejiggering for a new generation of customers some core elements of a bike messenger’s uniform: shorts over leggings, vests worn unfastened, bags the size of sailor’s duffels and shoes that were like butched-up versions of a paddock boot.
...Happily, the designer eventually returned to his core theme, and the beefcake parade resumed with models in wrestling singlets and then in the vaguely kitsch S&M get-ups that preceded and followed the playing of a video collaboration between Armani, Lady Gaga (performing her song “Alejandro”) and the fashion photographer Steven Klein. “Emporio Armani for Gaga” read a block-lettered super-title playing across a large screen at the foot of the runway. On it, the singer writhed and gyrated in some curious black leather get-up that appeared to make reference both to Madonna in her sprightly cone-bra phase and to Leni Riefenstahl’s immortally offensive “Triumph of the Will.”
Giorgio Armani presented his spring 2011 Emporio Armani men's collection in Milan. nytimes.com nymag.com ideas digest
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